ON LOCATION IN MAURITIUS
Mauritius really is that laid back island lifestyle manifest. The perfect destination to get away from it all and truly relax.
As a surfer, I have long fantasized about landing a dream job on a tropical island paradise. And then it happened, as it generally does in the film industry, with a phone call out of the blue.
Jump forward to late July 2020 watching Madagascar slowly slide by from a port window of our Falcon 500 charter, on our way to Mauritius as part of the advance team on the Director’s location reconnaissance.
The curious irony to all of this is that it happened in the midst of the first wave of the Covid pandemic. In fact, the pandemic was perhaps the catalyst for the entire venture. Certainly the reason for my being on a charter jet as there were no commercial flights and our destination had the almost unique distinction of being designated ‘Covid safe’
The Mauritian government acted swiftly in the early stages of the pandemic by enacting an almost immediate stay at home lockdown for a 2-week period, coupled with a rigorous testing program and a successful social distancing and mask-wearing campaign. All of which translates to the virus being effectively eradicated from the island population.
In order to fly into Mauritius, we were required to test negative within a 72 hour period prior to boarding and self-isolate between the test and the flight departure to minimize possible infection in that window between. We all embraced this protocol willingly as A) we did not want to become infected and B) run the risk of infecting others.
We landed at Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam International Airport as night was falling. Entering the mostly deserted terminal was a reminder that we are currently living in a strangely upended and insecure world. Empty large spaces designed to move masses of people are oddly eerie, particularly when lit at night, it somehow exacerbates a sense of the forlorn.
Our departure from the airport was via a couple of minivans, complete with police motorbike escort. I would like to extend the fantasy and believe the escort was on account of our VIP status, but I’m pretty sure the truth was more likely that we were a bunch of potential Covid bombs that needed to be strictly contained.
Our destination was a hotel in a suburb called Moka, a climatically cooler area in the foothills, about a 15-minute drive from the capital Port Louis. The hotel was comfortable but nevertheless an ordeal to be strictly contained in one’s room for the requisite 2 week quarantine period. The hotel was staffed by super friendly and helpful people under the supervision of the Health Ministry during this time. They also oversaw/ administered another Covid test at the end of the first week and another on the morning of departure as a final hurdle to being released onto the island. We all passed again.
As arduous as the quarantine was it was a small price to pay to be in a place that is effectively Covid free. And safe precisely because of the strict protocols. After barely escaping a rapidly closing Europe in March and returning home to Cape Town straight into a 6-week strict lockdown, (which only partially eased at the time of my departure), it was completely liberating to be unconcerned, a real stress, (more than consciously acknowledged), just lifted from my shoulders. The only downside was a small sense of guilt of having ‘abandoned’ friends and family.
Since my arrival in July, the Mauritian Government has developed partnerships with some of the resorts which allow for an infinitely more comfortable quarantine with sensible adjustments that don’t increase infection risk i.e. families/ partners can quarantine together, (even travel ‘groups’ are being considered as a single quarantine entity), you may be outside in designated areas including monitored and prescribed use of facilities/ activities. These adjustments allow the quarantine period to be more effectively rolled into the vacation, rather than an entry test endurance.
Which brings us to the Island itself. It’s great, whether you choose to have that pampered resort experience or be a little more adventurous and seek interaction with the broader island life.
Working in Mauritius and filming at multiple locations, interacting with various tradespeople and businesses as part of my job while being accommodated in hotels, boutique apartments and a luxury resort allowed me an island experience that covered both bases.
Mauritius, like most Islands, has a rich history. Believed to be first discovered by Arabs and Malays, later colonized by the Dutch, French, and lastly Britain. The primary industry on the island was and remains sugar, and to service this the Island acquired an ethnically and culturally diverse population, mostly in the form of indentured labor, principally from Africa, India, and China. (Labor, craftsmen, and traders were brought in as the island was devoid of humans, as evidenced by the naïve, friendly, and very edible Dodo. Possibly the world’s most famous extinct animal).
While these diverse origins are still evident today, and separate cultural identities are maintained, they help provide a cultural richness to the island. Also manifest in diverse and tasty cuisine choices, from Chinese, Indian, Creole, and European origins and high-end fusion options between. Principally however one has an overwhelming sense of a harmonious island, where the population identifies first and foremost as Mauritian. This harmony is reflected in a high rating in the Human Development Index score for democracy social freedom and economic outlook, along with being designated the most peaceful African country by the Global Peace Index in 2019.
Over the last 20 years, real estate is evolving as a growth industry as the sugar demand plateaus and development returns per hectare become increasingly competitive with sugar income. This is further bolstered by the government offering residency with property purchased over a particular value. The growing take up of these residency options is a reflection of the broad appeal of the island, both in a socio-economic sense and geographically. A consistently balmy climate which nevertheless offers a variety of microclimates as one moves from North to South and coast to inland along with an almost overwhelming beauty whichever way you look. Magnificent mountain backdrops to palm-fringed crescent beaches along with wild coastal cliffs and spectacular waterfalls, acres of rolling cane intercut with pristine forest.